Shock protection—especially for the balance wheel—became common after the 1950s. Older watches may not survive a short fall, and internal damage can occur even without visible signs. Newer systems use spring-mounted components to reduce the risk of impact damage.

A watch winder keeps automatic watches running when not worn by gently rotating them. However, we recommend against most winders unless they provide full 360-degree rotation. Improper winding can unevenly distribute oils and wear down parts. We do not sell winders and encourage daily wear instead.

Jewels are synthetic sapphires or rubies used as low-friction bearings in a movement. More jewels typically mean more complications and parts—but not necessarily a better watch. Most mechanical watches have 17 or more jewels. Like a sports car, more complexity means more maintenance.

A hacking feature stops the seconds hand when setting the time, allowing precise synchronization with another clock.

Gold is measured in karats (K), with 24K being pure gold. Since pure gold is too soft for everyday use, it’s mixed with other metals. Watches are often made in 9K, 14K, or 18K.

Common materials include stainless steel, chrome, nickel, titanium, platinum, base metal, silver, sterling silver, and various gold alloys (yellow, white, and rose gold).

Electroplating uses electric currents to apply a thin layer of metal (often gold) to the case. It’s a modern, cost-effective alternative to gold-filling.

Gold-filled cases are made by bonding a thick layer of gold to a base metal using heat. This method predates electroplating and produces a more durable finish.

A repeater chimes the time on demand, activated by a slider or button. Types include quarter, five-minute, and minute repeaters, depending on the level of detail in the chime.

A tourbillon rotates the escapement in a cage to counteract the effects of gravity on timekeeping. Originally developed for pocket watches, it’s now a prized complication in luxury timepieces.

A moonphase complication displays the current phase of the moon through a small aperture on the dial, tracking the moon’s 29.5-day cycle.

A triple date complication shows the day, date, and month. It must be manually adjusted at the end of months with fewer than 31 days.